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Mekka biegaczy. Biegać i umrzeć w Sankt Moritz

Jak połączyć obóz biegowy w górach z ekskluzywnymi wakacjami? Wystarczy pojechać do Sankt Moritz. Zobacz, jak trenować w średnich górach - nie tylko zresztą szwajcarskich - i jak wiele korzyści przynosi to wszystkim, także początkującym biegaczom.

Bieganie w Sankt Moritz fot. Engadin St. Moritz Swiss-Image.Ch/Robert Boesch

Kiedy przeprowadzałem ankietę wśród polskich biegaczy wyczynowych z pytaniem o ich ulubione miejsce treningowe, większość z nich podała bez wahania tego szwajcarskiego kurortu. "Ale dlaczego właśnie tam?" - drążyłem. Odpowiedzi było wiele: spokojna atmosfera, namacalna bliskość gór, piękne jeziora, odpowiednia wysokość, pewna forma po przyjeździe do kraju, kilometry tras o zróżnicowanym ukształtowaniu, bieżnia lekkoatletyczna..., no i (last but not least) w Sankt Moritz po prostu wypada być!

Wielokulturowo, stylowo i sportowo

Popularność szwajcarskiego miasteczka, położonego w górnej części doliny Engadyna, związana jest od wieków z leczniczymi wodami, a od połowy XIX wieku z pionierską turystyką narciarską i wspinaczkową. Oryginalny charakter Sankt Moritz zapewniło skrzyżowanie trzech języków: niemieckiego, włoskiego oraz retoromańskiego, czyli Romansch, którym mówią rdzenni mieszkańcy kantonu (Gryzonii).

Od ponad 30 lat obozy w górach stanowią stały punkt przygotowań do startów czołowych biegaczy na średnich i długich dystansach.

Krzyżują się tu rozmaite kultury. Mieszkają tu Szwajcarzy i Włosi, ale niemały odsetek mieszkańców tej 5,5-tysięcznej miejscowości stanowią Portugalczycy i Niemcy. W zimie coraz głośniej słychać język rosyjski, a pod koniec lata na ulicach Sankt Moritz powszechnym widokiem są ubrani w chałaty, ortodoksyjni Żydzi. Co roku przyjeżdża tu blisko 200 tysięcy turystów z całego świata. To miejsce ma prawdziwie kosmopolityczny charakter.

Ale nie ma co się oszukiwać - na gościach z zagranicy zawsze się tu dobrze zarabiało. Od ponad 100 lat miasteczko, szczególnie w okresie listopad-kwiecień, oblegane jest przez turystyczną śmietankę Europy. Sankt Moritz jest modne, jest ekskluzywne, jest chic. Nosi zresztą nieformalne miano zimowej stolicy snobizmu. Przyjeżdża się tu na spotkania biznesowe, zloty artystyczne, festiwale, zjazdy starych samochodów i przepłacane kuracje. Na centralnym deptaku Sankt Moritz Dorf (luksusowa część miasta, znajdująca się powyżej uzdrowiska Sankt Moritz Bad) usytuowane są najbardziej ekskluzywne hotele, galerie, butiki i sklepy - a w nich królują ceny wysokie jak szczyty gór otaczających miasteczko...

Miejscowość kojarzona jest od dawien dawna przede wszystkim ze sportami zimowymi. Na skutym lodem jeziorze Lej da San Murezzan organizowane są mecze polo i widowiskowe zawody jeździeckie. Do niedalekiej Celeriny prowadzi klasyczny tor saneczkowy Cresta Run. W 1928 i 1948 roku Sankt Moritz było gospodarzem zimowych igrzysk olimpijskich. Dziś na miłośników zjazdówek czeka ponad 300 kilometrów tras, a wizytówką narciarstwa biegowego jest rozgrywany w marcu maraton, w którym uczestniczy ponad 10 tysięcy biegaczek i biegaczy.

Wiosną i wczesnym latem jest tu trochę spokojniej. Dopiero w czerwcu pojawiają się w Sankt Moritz pierwsi biegacze. Najlepsi biegacze świata.

Skokowa poprawa formy

W konkurencjach wytrzymałościowych szuka się wciąż nowych dróg i środków treningowych. Od ponad 30 lat obozy w górach stanowią stały punkt przygotowań do startów czołowych "średniaków" i "długasów". Według potwierdzonych badań, najkorzystniej jest znaleźć dobre tereny treningowe w tzw. górach średnich - między 1500 a 2200 m n.p.m. Po zjeździe ze zgrupowań treningowych w takich miejscach forma jest niemal pewna.

Sankt Moritz, jak również sąsiadujące z nim bezpośrednio w górnej Engadynie miejscowości: Champfer, Silvaplana i Sils Maria, leżą około 1800 metrów nad poziomem morza. W Sankt Moritz organizm biegacza nizinnego musi dostosować się do klimatu górskiego. Kluczowymi czynnikami w kontekście treningu są: znaczne obniżenie ciśnienia barycznego, powiązany z nim spadek ciśnienia parcjalnego (prężności) tlenu, dodatnia jonizacja powietrza i jego zwiększona gęstość (na 2000 metrów w powietrzu jest tylko 16% tlenu).

Zaraz po przyjeździe odnosimy wrażenie, że trudniej nam się oddycha, wydaje nam się, że ruszamy się jak muchy w smole. Organizm walczy wtedy z hipoksją, czyli krótko mówiąc - z niedotlenieniem tkanek. Jednak ta walka jest korzystna dla naszego ciała. Reagując na zjawisko hipoksji, uruchamiamy ostre zmiany regulacyjne, obejmujące układ sercowo-naczyniowy, krwiotwórczy, oddychania zewnętrznego i wymiany gazowej. Oddychamy częściej, więc trenujemy mięśnie oddechowe.

Hiperwentylacja i hiperfunkcja serca przyspieszają przepływ zwiększonej ilości krwi z płuc do tkanek. Aby dostarczyć wystarczającą ilości tlenu do mózgu, serca i innych organów, rozszerzają się między innymi tętnice i kapilary mózgowe. Organizm uczy się, jak polepszyć transport tlenu do tkanek, a najłatwiejszą do zaobserwowania korzyścią dla biegających osób jest gwałtowny wzrost liczby czerwonych krwinek i zawartej w nich hemoglobiny.

Jak uważają fizjologowie sportu, do Sankt Moritz i innych miejscowości w górach średnich nie warto jechać na krócej niż 3 tygodnie. Na korzystne efekty reakcji hipoksycznych trzeba poczekać około tygodnia. W tym okresie biega się dość spokojnie, a dopiero w drugim i trzecim tygodniu ostrożnie wraca się do reżimu treningowego z nizin.

Nawet doświadczeni biegacze nie trenują w tak wysokich górach na wysokich obrotach. Wiedzą, że o przetrenowanie łatwo. Niestety, formy nie da się trzymać w nieskończoność. Po powrocie z dobrze przepracowanego obozu w górach korzystne zmiany utrzymują się przez niecałe dwa miesiące.

Biegiem przez górną Engadynę

Podczas gdy adaptujemy się stopniowo do wysokości, rozejrzyjmy się wokół. W okolicy Sankt Moritz rozciąga się sieć ponad 100 kilometrów tras biegowych, urzekających różnorodnością krajobrazów, przyrody i zmiennym ukształtowaniem terenu. Co istotne, można tu biegać, nawet całkiem szybko, nie pokonując znaczących różnic wysokości względnych, jak to ma miejsce np. w polskich Tatrach czy nawet Sudetach.

Możliwości jest mnóstwo. Samo Sankt Moritz położone jest nad jeziorem o tej samej nazwie, które w miesiącach letnich służy żeglarzom i kajakarzom. Wokół Lej da San Murezzan wymierzono asfaltową, miejscami szutrową, pętlę o długości 4300 metrów. To ulubione miejsce lansujących się biegaczy i spacerowiczów. W sercu kurortu wypada przynajmniej raz się pokazać, chociaż niekiedy jest tu zbyt tłoczno.

Jeśli chcemy odbyć jakiś trening tempowy albo po prostu mieć gwarancję spotkania sław światowej lekkiej atletyki, musimy koniecznie zajrzeć na tartanową bieżnię (wstęp wolny), usytuowaną w otoczeniu niezbyt pięknych apartamentowców Sankt Moritz Bad. W ostatnich latach natknąć się tu było można na mistrzów świata (Yusuf Jamal z Bahrajnu czy Saad Kamel z Kataru), mistrzów Europy (Francuzów - Mehdiego Baalę i Boubdellaha Tahriego), medalistów olimpijskich (np. Maria Mutola z Mozambiku) oraz czołowych maratończyków świata (Szwajcar Wiktor Rothlin, Amerykanka Kara Goucher). Jeździ tam też od kilku lat biegowa reprezentacja Polski. Trening na jednej bieżni z takimi czempionami od razu dodaje skrzydeł. Czujemy się jak goście na biegowych salonach Europy.

Kierując się z Sankt Moritz na północny wschód, możemy łagodnie zbiec wzdłuż rozszerzającej się stopniowo, słabo zalesionej doliny Innu - rzeki, która utworzyła i nazwała całą Engadynę. Poznamy w ten sposób kolejne miejscowości: Celerinę, Samedan, Bever i dalsze Zuoz (wciąż ponad 1700 m n.p.m.).

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